Two Backpackers

Photo of the Day: Pikillacta Ruins Cusco Peru

Jason — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

The Wari Empire was a pre-Inca civilization that constructed extensive roadwork across Peru. Believed to have been conquered by the Incas, Wari peoples no longer exist. Pikillacta lies 30 kilometers outside of the city of Cusco and covers 2 square miles. It appears very large, but much is still to be excavated and restored.

Pre-Inca Pikillacta Ruins Near Cusco, Peru

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Photo of the Day: Valle de la Muerte in the Atacama Desert

Jason — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

Valle de la Muerte, also known as Death Valley, is easily accessed from the desert of San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. The large sand dunes are ideal for sand boarding, hiking and experiencing sand blasts in the strong desert winds. Be sure to protect your cameras, or you will end up with sand in your lenses like we did.

Landscape at Valle de la Muerte Near San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

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Photo of the Day: Valle de Frances Patagonia

Jason — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

During our Full Circuit Trek at Torres del Paine Patagonia we hiked to the top of Valle de Frances. Valle de Frances is the middle leg of what forms the “W.” If you can endure it, there is a hidden trail that continues to lead up the mountain past the spot where most hikers have lunch. The hike is a bit dangerous especially when the surface of the rocks freezes but the views are just stunning.

Jason Having Lunch At Valle de Frances Patagonia

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Photo of the Day: Road Through Salinas Grande Argentina

Aracely — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

During our exploration of Northern Argentina we visited Salinas Grande. These are not the largest Salt Flats in South America but beautiful none the less. This main highway runs right through the Salt Flats providing excellent panoramic views.

Road Through Salinas Grande In Northern Argentina

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Photo of the Day: Dinosaur Footprints In Bolivia

Aracely — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

We took a 3-day trek with Condortrekkers, a non-profit tour organization based out of Sucre, Bolivia. Our trek consisted of walking along an Inca Trail, exploring Maragua Crater and touching Dinosaur Footprints. These footprints 64 million year old fossils were left in the bottom of a lake bed and preserved with sediment.

Dinosaur Footprints Near Sucre, Bolivia

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Photo of the Day: Pink Flamingos in Patagonia Argentina

Aracely — Sun, 25 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

On the bus ride from Calafate, Argentina to the Perito Moreno Glacier, our driver pulled over just outside Calafate so we could take some pictures of the beautiful pink flamingos in a lake. Flamingos can be be found throughout much of South America and it’s best to have a telephoto lens when trying to capture them up close.

Pink Flamingos On A Lake In Patagonia, Argentina

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Photo of the Day: A Boy And His Donkey In Bolivia

Aracely — Sat, 24 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

This young boy and his Donkey passed by while we were taking a snack and water break during our hike at Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca. The boy took interest in us and stopped just beside us to see what we were up to. I engaged him in conversation and offered him Pringles in exchange for a picture, he agreed.

A Boy And His Donkey At Isla del Sol, Bolivia

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Photo of the Day: Hardworking Mule In Peru

Aracely — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

During our Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, mules carried most of the loads. Mules are used throughout the Andes Mountains in South America due to their strength, stamina, long life and they are sure-footed. Horses can be found too, but typically only carrying people short distances.

Mule Carrying Load During Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

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Photo of the Day: Llamas & Alpacas In Northern Chile

Aracely — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

Llamas, alpacas and vicunas roam Northern Chile’s Altiplano. Most of them are domesticated, except vicunas, which remain wild and often a protected species. These animals produce incredible wool fabrics, especially the vicuna. While traveling in South America, you might also want to taste llama or alpaca steak.

Llamas & Alpacas Crossing The Road in Chile

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Photo of the Day: Armadillo In Penninsula Valdes Argentina

Aracely — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

We knew ArmadillosT were in the US specifically Texas, but we didn’t know they were in South American, this one we found in Argentina. This critter walked across the parking lot in Punta Norte quiet casually after we watched sea lions all day. It seemed to be comfortable around many cars and people.

Armadillo Walks By While We Are in the Parking Lot in Punta Norte Argentina

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Photo of the Day: Angry Turkey In Peru

Aracely — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

This turkey was at one of our rest stops during our Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. The second picture below is of the same exact turkey after getting agitated. My only guess is it didn’t like me too close to it taking pictures, but I didn’t ask directly.

Wild Turkey

Angry Turkey

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Otavalo Market In Ecuador

Aracely — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 12:30:34 +0000

The Otavalo Market is one of South America’s most grandest and famous markets. The best day to experience the market is on Saturdays. From Quito, it’s a 2 hour bus ride to the city of Otavalo. Passengers will start to get off the bus at several stops after you enter town, but be patient and you will arrive at the bus terminal.

Within five minutes of walking the vendor lined streets, Otavalo made my top 5 most interesting places I visited in South America. The energy felt while browsing the endless market is uplifting and fun. It evokes curiosity and an uncontrollable desire to shop once immersed in the chaos.

We have chosen pictures that best provide an idea of what the Otavalo Market is all about. To be fair, I feel as though this is one of those cases where you really need to experience the market to know what it’s truly like.

Plaza Simon Bolivar in Otavalo

The town is very pleasant and very clean despite the tremendous traffic it receives every Saturday.

Locals Shopping at the Otavalo Market

Locals and tourists alike both bargain for the best price of any items they desire. You can find almost anything at the Otavalo Market including: jewelry, Panama hats, movies, music, clothes, live animals, produce, meat, ready to eat food and hammocks.

Fruits for Sale at the Otavalo Market

The most intriguing and chaotic section of the Otavalo Market is the animal market. Campesinos and farmers come to either sell or buy cattle, pigs, sheep, chickens, ducks, dogs and more.

Animal Market of Otavalo, Ecuador

I spotted a man carrying a crate of baby chicks. Within seconds he almost disappeared in the the crowd, but I chased him down to take this picture. We wanted to take 5 home for $1 USD, but I don’t think the airline would let us.

Baby Chicks for Sale at the Otavalo Market

The clothing, tapestries, bags and hammocks create a surrounding landscape of endless colors.

Hammocks for Sale at the Otavalo Market

Backpackers or tourists can be found wearing these pajamas all over South America, but you will rarely ever see a local dressed in these.

Famous South American Pajamas

An array of spices and different foods from Ecuador’s highlands decorate vendors’ tables and can often be found in the almuerzos (lunch) served in the dinning section of the market.

Spices Being Sold at the Otavalo Market

LLama and alpaca wool are used for sweaters and scarfs that tourists purchase at incredibly low prices in South America. It’s difficult to make sure that what you are buying is real alpaca versus a synthetic mix. Traditional Ecuador textile is best represented in tapestries and blankets.

Handmade Fabrics for Sale at the Otavalo Market

Food in Ecuador’s highlands consists of corn, potatoes, beans, rice and meat.

Chorizo (Morcilla) with Mote (a type of corn)

The market may be the main attraction in Otavalo, but the surrounding snow capped mountains, many restaurants and beautiful streets are enough reason to stay the weekend.

Streets of Otavalo Ecuador

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Photo of the Day: Sheep In Central Andes Ecuador

Aracely — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

Insilivi is a tiny town located in the Central Andes of Ecuador. We began our Quilotoa Loop Hike from this town where there is only one hostal, Hostel Mama LLama. These sheep were just hanging out outside near our hostel door.

Sheep At Insilivi, Ecuador

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Photo of the Day: Colorful Mountains Of Northern Argentina

Aracely — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 14:00:16 +0000

These mountains have the nickname “7 Color Mountains” they surround the town of Purmamarca in Northern Argentina. There is a trail on the outskirts of town that is an hour long and provides great views of the surrounding mountains.

Colorful Mountains Surrounding the Town of Purmamarca in Northern Argentina

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Photo of the Day: Landscape In Northern Argentina

Aracely — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

This breath taking view is located just north of a small town called Campo Quijano. From Campo Quijano we raced our rental car to catch a glimpse of the Train of the Clouds (or Tren de las Nubes), a popular tourist attraction in northern Argentina.

Landscape Of Northern Argentina

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Photo of the Day: Devil’s Throat In Northern Argentina

Aracely — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

Devil’s Throat is one of the many rock formations that line the road between Salta and Cafayate in Northern Argentina. Garganta Del Diablo is a welcoming stop over on the long drive. We enjoyed the guitar and flute playing of a man making a few dollars while entertaining in the auditorium acoustics of the Devi’s Throat.

Rock Formations On The Road Near Cafayate, Northern Argentina

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Discover Chone Ecuador My Hometown

Aracely — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 12:30:29 +0000

As I stare out the window of the bus, I watch a world passing by. It is moving quickly through my window and it’s incredibly different from my world today. Every time I visit my hometown of Chone, located in the province of Manabi in coastal Ecuador, I can’t help but wonder what my life would be like had I never left. Where would I be? Who would I be? I can only wonder.

Here are few pictures to show what my hometown of Chone is all about:

Local Transportation In Chone, Ecuador

This is a Chiva bus. It’s popular in Colombia and Ecuador and it provides very cheap transportation to nearby towns. They are very uncomfortable and get extremely packed with passengers hanging of the sides and back and even sitting on the roof.

Water Ice Sales Cart In The Streets of Chone

As I kid I used to love eating water ice from these sales carts. The vendors scrape shavings from a very large solid block of ice with a hand held tool and then scoop it into a plastic cone. They pour sugar flavored syrup over the ice and top it off with some condensed milk for an extra punch of sweetness.

Streets Of Chone, Ecuador

It is definitely not a tourist town, and Jason was always the only gringo around. Buildings like the one above are still common in the center of town. They are made of thin slices of wood called caña. There are a few houses around that I can still remember which look exactly as they did when I was a kid.

Side Street In Chone, Ecuador

Many of the side streets in Chone are still dirt roads, which makes the entire town dusty in the scorching coastal heat and muddy when it rains.

Streets Of Chone, Ecuador On A Sunday

Chone is a very disorderly and dusty town and it becomes even more lively on Sunday when the campesinos (country people) head into town to shop at the crowded street markets. Choneros (people from Chone) are friendly, speak very fast and are very loud especially when they laugh. Food is also a very significant part of Chone’s culture. Choneros will tell you that they have the best foods in the coast. Below are some of Chone’s staple foods.

Bread Made From Grounded Yucca Flour

One of the most common snacks is Yucca Bread or Pan de Almidon. Street vendors sell them all over town and in the bus stations. It is Jason’s favorite. He ate over 15 of them during our weekend visit to Chone. The exterior is crunchy, while the interior is cheesy, moist and chewy and often hollowed out.

Plantain Soup Made With Pieces Of Cooked Plantains, Milk, and Cheese

Choneros make everything out of green plantains. We have fried plantains, baked plantains, smashed plantains, grinned plantains, boiled plantains, sweet plantains. We make plantain soup, plantain stew, plantain tortillas, plantain empanadas….I feel like Bubba from Forrest Gump.

Morcilla: Pigs Blood Sausage Stuffed With Rice And Spices Accompanied With Baked Plantains

Morcilla is also a local’s favorite. It sounds gross, but it actually tastes pretty descent. It’s pigs blood sausage stuffed with rice and spices. It’s usually eaten with some variation of plantains of course.

Plantain Empanadas Filled With Cheese

Plantain empanadas are made by first boiling raw green plantains, then after they become soft smashing them (like you would potatoes when making mashed potatoes). You must work the plantain dough really well until it becomes pliable. Next, add salt and simply put cheese inside and fold it to make the half moon empanada shape. Then fry it. Before eating them I like to add some aji (spicy sauce). Delicious!

It’s always very emotional for me to return home. People often ask me how I ended up in the United States. When I hear the question, I often take a deep breath before I answer. “It’s a long story I reply.” Perhaps, I will share on a future post.

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Photo of the Day: Train Of The Clouds In Northern Argentina

Aracely — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 12:00:16 +0000

This train is a tourist attraction in Northern Argentina. El Tren de las Nubes (or Train of the Clouds) takes a very scenic stroll through the region. The train doesn’t actually go to any specific town, it just takes it’s passengers through a beautiful route, makes a quick stop where artisan merchants sell their crafts and returns to it’s point of origin.

We did not ride the train but we did go on a wild chase to catch a glimpse of it.

Tren De Las Nubes or Train Of The Clouds In Northern Argentina

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Photo of the Day: Colorful Landscape in Northern Argentina

Aracely — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 13:00:16 +0000

This has to be one of the most color filled landscapes we have seen during our travels. This photo is of a river valley we drove adjacent to from Cafayate to Salta in Northern Argentina.

A Colorful Road Near Cafayate, Northern Argentina

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How We Paid For A Year Of Travel

Aracely — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 12:15:48 +0000

Working at the Beach in San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua

Perhaps you are expecting me to reveal a secret formula or quick way to make money that gives you the means to take a year long trip. I’m sorry, we do not have one.

It’s similar to asking a trainer or nutritionist what’s the best way to loose weight and their response is always, “eat healthy and exercise,” uh, what a bummer. Who wants to do that! We never want to do the work we just want to bask in the results.

Now, I’m definitely not an expert on financial planning or round the world trip planning for that matter. But, I am going to share with you the personal details of how Jason and I were able to pay for the $15,000 USD each for our year of travel in Latin America. Unfortunately, my answer for how we did it is probably worse than eating healthy and exercising. It’s financial responsibility. Gasp!

Aracely’s Financial History

Currency We Have Collected During Our Trip

I am from a single parent home and have worked since the age of 14. My mother has never had the means to save much money and always lived from paycheck to paycheck. That meant I had to work for what I wanted. I rushed through college because I knew I had to hurry up and help my mother and younger brother financially. I paid for it all with financial aid, scholarships, grants and working up to three jobs at one time. Oh, and I never had any credit card debt, ever.

After college I was hired by Mercedes-Benz where I worked for a little less than 5 years. With my salary, I paid for my own apartment, car, bills and helped my mother. This meant I too lived paycheck to paycheck during that time. Then in 2007, at the age of 25, I landed a job with American Express. The move gave me a much needed 50% salary increase. When this happened, I did not purchase a new car or get a bigger apartment as most Americans have the habit of doing. In fact, I reduced my spending by getting rid of my leased vehicle, since I could now take The Path (NJ-NY public train system) to work everyday. This enabled me to save a lot of money over 1.5 years.

5,000 Chilean Pesos

When we decided to travel for an entire year we began to run the numbers and calculated that we needed $15,000 USD each. This does not include any of our gear expense. In my case, I also had to make sure there was enough money to continue to help my mother during the time we were traveling. That was an additional $6,000 dollars for the year. Upon our return, I wanted to make sure that I had enough savings left to feel financially safe for emergencies.

Once I knew all of the above was feasible, from only 1.5 years of savings, I gave my boss at American Express my resignation notice. To my surprise, I was offered to work remotely while I traveled. The agreement was for me to work 5 days per month. After taxes, this now pays for my all travel expenses. It was a blessing because it meant that I did not have to diminish my savings during my year of travel.

Jason’s Financial History

1 Guatemalan Quetzal

This is probably the only time I will consider my age an advantage. I had never planned on long term travel before, therefor I have never saved money for it. But, I have been working since 1997 and was able to begin saving money after I paid off my debt in 2003. My debt was the result of a owning a high maintenance car and some small graduate school loans. From 2003 to 2009 I had saved enough money for a down payment on a home, my highest priority at the time. I own a vehicle that is paid off and have no existing debt. It was the perfect time to move forward on a home considering the housing market had tanked.

5 Argentinan Pesos

Unexpectedly to both us, we suddenly made a decision to travel long term. The good thing was, I had the money. The bad thing was, I would be spending the down payment of a house. We look back now with no regrets. I don’t see us buying a house anytime soon, it would hinder our traveling significantly and eliminate many freedoms we have today.

I didn’t necessarily save for this trip, I saved for the sake of saving. I saved for a house, financial freedom, an active social life and fun vacations. Saving includes eliminating credit card debt. If you are saving money, but at the same time increasing your credit card debt or taking out loans for cars, you aren’t saving. It’s a concept that the United States struggles with, including our government. Debt takes away your freedoms.

I quite my job and am now cruising along on my many years of savings.

Our Budget Progress

10 Bolivian Bolivianos

We rationed our budget at $1,333 USD each per month for a total of $2,666, of that $1,000 was allocated towards “adventure” and the rest for day-to-day living expenses. The actual expenses varied from month to month and country to country. After 11 months of travel we have already exceeded the $30,000 mark by $1,500 dollars, we still have not purchased our tickets home and have one more month of travel expenses left. We both agree that we could have stayed within our original budget if we didn’t have friends visiting from home. That’s not to say we didn’t want our friends visiting.

When friends visit us, it’s a vacation for them. They have 2 weeks to see and do as much as possible. That usually means flying places and eating at fancy restaurants. If we eliminate the flights and fancy restaurants we ate at during our friends’ visits we would have made our budget. During our last month in Quito, Ecuador, we are now eating in all the time, saving money. I don’t think it will be enough to break even, but it’s helping.

Advice

There you have it. I’m sorry again for not being able to provide a secret formula. The only secret is financial responsibility. Even though we already had the money saved before we decided to do long term travel, I think the same behaviors apply regardless of what you are saving for. You must have discipline and patience. These characteristics are important for more than just saving money.

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